Sumptuary Laws: Who Did Athens Target?

Sumptuary laws are those that regulate consumption and display, particularly conspicuous consumption. Most of what we know about Athenian sumptuary laws relates to funerals, regulating everything from where certain portions of the ceremonies could be held, to what people (especially women) could wear, to what the stela (tombstone) could look like. They also regulated what people, particularly women, could wear in public, and how extravagant dinner parties could be, usually in an effort to control the upper classes. Sumptuary laws were designed to limit spending and excess clothing at all social levels, including high-ranking elites, but legislation was often particularly strict when it came to luxury clothing at the lower social levels.

Women

Sumptuary laws in Athens were aimed at regulating consumption and display, particularly the conspicuous consumption of the wealthy. These laws were used to reinforce social hierarchies and morals, control trade, and identify those considered "other", such as non-Christians and prostitutes.

Behaviour and Appearance:

Solon, the 6th-century BCE lawgiver, is known for his sumptuary laws that institutionalised the distinction between "good women" and "whores". He abolished most forms of self-sale and the sale of children into slavery, except for the right of a male guardian to sell an unmarried woman who had lost her virginity. Solon's laws also included restrictions on the behaviour and appearance of women, such as what they could wear, who could ride in a cart, and how different social classes were to be identified. These regulations were partly aimed at controlling the husbands of these women, as a woman's appearance was a significant aspect of how her husband displayed his wealth and power.

Clothing and Adornment:

Sumptuary laws in Athens dictated what women could wear in public and at funerals. Women were forbidden from wearing certain types of luxurious clothing, jewellery, and accessories that were typically admired by the elites. This included garments made from expensive silk fabrics, such as crimson red or purple silks and velvets, as well as scented gloves, feathers in hats, and slippers. These laws ensured that women's clothing and adornment aligned with their social status and prevented them from imitating the appearance of higher social classes.

Social Gatherings and Funerals:

Sumptuary laws in Athens also regulated how extravagant dinner parties and funerals could be, particularly among the upper classes. These laws aimed to curb displays of wealth and excessive consumption, which could fuel antagonism between different social groups. For example, during the rule of Demetrios of Phaleron in the late 4th century BCE, strict sumptuary laws were enforced, especially regarding funerals, to maintain social stability and minimise class friction.

Commoners

Sumptuary laws were designed to regulate consumption and display, especially conspicuous consumption. In Athens, these laws were applied to commoners to control their expenditures and maintain social hierarchies. Here's a detailed overview of how sumptuary laws applied to commoners in Athens:

Regulations on Clothing and Appearance:

Restrictions on Funerals:

Sumptuary laws in Athens heavily regulated funerals, especially those of commoners. These laws specified where certain portions of the funeral ceremonies could be held, what people could wear, and the design of tombstones. For example, the Solonian legislation at Athens included enactments against expensive female apparel, particularly those given in the dowry of a bride, and against extravagant funerals.

Limitations on Public Behaviour:

Control of Dinner Parties:

Athens's sumptuary laws extended to dinner parties and entertainment. There were laws limiting the number of guests at such gatherings, and regulations on the extravagance of the food and drink served. These laws applied to all citizens, including commoners, and were meant to curb excessive spending and reinforce social hierarchies.

Enforcement and Compliance:

The enforcement of sumptuary laws in Athens varied over time. During the times of Solon in the 6th century BCE and Demetrios of Phaleron in the late 4th and early 3rd centuries BCE, these laws were particularly strict. However, it is important to note that sumptuary laws were often challenging to enforce over extended periods, and their effectiveness varied.

The wealthy

Sumptuary laws in Athens were designed to regulate consumption and display, especially conspicuous consumption. These laws were applied to the wealthy, especially in regard to funerals, which were often used as a way to display wealth and power.

The first instance of sumptuary laws in Athens was around the time of Solon in the 6th century BCE. Solon's restrictions focused on the behaviour and appearance of women, as a way to control their husbands and reinforce the existing social order. He limited social mobility and curbed excesses to ensure people were more concerned about class differences than challenging his power. Solon's laws included restrictions on what women could wear, who could ride in a cart, and how different classes were to be identified.

In the late 4th century BCE, Demetrios of Phaleron, who ruled Athens for the Macedonian king Cassander, passed strict sumptuary laws to curb displays of wealth that fuelled antagonism between the "old money" and "new money" groups. These laws aimed to maintain stability and reinforce social distinctions.

Funeral regulations were a significant aspect of sumptuary laws in Athens, with restrictions on where certain portions of the ceremonies could be held, what people could wear, and the appearance of tombstones. The laws also controlled what people, especially women, could wear in public and limited the extravagance of dinner parties, typically targeting the upper classes.

In ancient Greece, sumptuary laws were also enacted to restrict the use of certain materials and maintain social hierarchies. For example, the Spartan inhabitants of Laconia were forbidden from owning gold or silver and were restricted to using only iron money.

The upper classes

Sumptuary laws in Athens were designed to regulate consumption and display, especially conspicuous consumption. These laws were often targeted at the upper classes, aiming to control their spending and display of wealth. Here is a detailed look at how sumptuary laws applied to the upper classes in Athens:

Solon's Laws

The first instance of sumptuary laws in Athens was around the time of Solon in the 6th century BCE. Solon's restrictions focused on the behaviour and appearance of women, aiming to control both them and their husbands. At this time, a man's wife and daughter's appearances were a significant way for him to display his wealth and power. Solon's laws defined who could wear what, curbing excesses and reinforcing the existing social order. He limited social mobility and emphasised class differences to ensure stability and minimise social friction between men of the same class. Solon's laws included restrictions on expensive female apparel and ornaments, particularly those given in the dowry of a bride, and expensive funerals. There were also laws limiting the number of guests at entertainments.

Demetrios of Phaleron's Laws

The second major instance of sumptuary laws in Athens occurred several hundred years after Solon, in the late 4th and early 3rd centuries BCE, during the rule of Demetrios of Phaleron for the Macedonian king Cassander. At this time, the wealthy of Athens could be divided into two groups: old money and new money. Demetrios passed strict sumptuary laws, especially those concerning funerals, to curb displays of wealth that fuelled antagonism between these two groups and to maintain social stability.

Specific Regulations

The sumptuary laws in Athens included specific regulations on what people, especially women, could wear in public and how extravagant dinner parties could be. For example, there were laws that prohibited certain types of clothing, such as purple silks and velvets, and accessories admired by the elites, like scented gloves, feathers in hats, and slippers. These laws also controlled where certain portions of funeral ceremonies could be held and what the stela (tombstone) could look like.

Comparison with Other Societies

It is worth noting that sumptuary laws were not unique to Athens and existed in various forms in ancient societies worldwide. For example, in ancient Rome, there were laws governing the materials of garments and the number of guests at entertainments. In medieval Europe, sumptuary laws were used to restrict the dress and appearances of different social classes, including the upper classes.

Foreigners

Sumptuary laws in Athens were designed to regulate consumption and display, particularly conspicuous consumption. While there is no explicit mention of foreigners in the sources, it is likely that they were subject to these laws as well, especially if they intended to reside in the city. Here is a detailed overview of how sumptuary laws in Athens may have applied to foreigners:

Application of Sumptuary Laws to Foreigners in Athens:

Funeral Regulations:

One of the main areas of focus for Athenian sumptuary laws was funerals. Foreigners in Athens, especially those with social ties or permanent residency, would have been expected to adhere to these regulations. This included restrictions on the location of certain funeral ceremonies, the attire of attendees, and the appearance of tombstones. Foreigners burying their loved ones in Athens would have had to comply with these laws to ensure their funerals were not seen as extravagant or excessive.

Restrictions on Clothing and Adornments:

Sumptuary laws in Athens placed restrictions on clothing and adornments, especially for women. Foreign women residing in Athens would have been expected to follow these laws, refraining from wearing expensive or extravagant garments and ornaments. This applied not only to their public attire but also to their dowries, where certain luxurious items may have been prohibited or limited. Foreigners, especially those from wealthier backgrounds, would have had to adjust their wardrobe and possessions to comply with Athenian sumptuary laws.

Limitations on Dinner Parties and Entertainment:

Athenian sumptuary laws also regulated dinner parties and entertainment. Foreigners hosting social gatherings in Athens would have been subject to these laws, which limited the number of guests and the extravagance of the event. This applied to both private and public celebrations, with laws dictating how many guests could be invited and what types of food and drink could be served. Foreigners would have had to adapt their entertainment practices to conform to Athenian standards.

Enforcement and Social Expectations:

While the exact enforcement mechanisms for sumptuary laws in Athens are not entirely clear, it is likely that foreigners would have been monitored by the wider community. Athenian citizens were encouraged to report violations, and social pressure may have played a significant role in ensuring compliance. Foreigners, therefore, would have been expected to adhere to the same standards as citizens to avoid social ostracism or legal consequences.

Adaptability and Compliance:

Frequently asked questions